vexatious: Do you know any decent capture card? Component with support up to 720p or 1080i would be highly preffered, the only way for me to record Laserdiscs is to use my DVD recorder. Also, I'm using an R7G but its comb filter is (just like the X0) designed by NEC. The CLD-99 has the same comb filter as the X0 while the S9 and X9 shares a comb filter by Mitsubishi.

I think the Startech hd capture would be the best bang for the buck:http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16815158317. Only problem is it doesn't have Linux drivers ATM, no HD tuner, doesn't capture composite (though with a properly made driver it should be able to), and you need an hdcp decoder if capturing from HDMI; has no encoding either so it's pretty bare bones. It's very good for 15khz RGB from older game consoles too (would be interesting IMO to try an LD-V4300D via rgb). You also want to make sure it captures svideo since I can't remember and it might not. You have to encode in software to save space so I don't know if this would be your best option...

Too bad my pvr-150 doesn't have a 3D comb filter... Virtualdub software is my only choice unfortunately.

I finally got A Brighter Summer Day in the mail and I recorded some scenes from the first side over to DVD (MPEG2...). Here's some captures and I can't say I'm in need of a DVD but a good Blu-Ray would be nice.









Just as a bonus, here's a screenshot I found on google. Seems to be from a LD-rip that's been circulating the internet. I've never cared about piracy and this is, to me, a perfect example why Laserdisc should be seen on a real setup.



I also recorded some footage from DTS Experience (1998) [PILW-1258] and some other titles, I'll try to put up some captures from those as well.

Here's some screenshots from DTS Experience (1998) [PILW-1258]. It's an incredible Laserdisc that shows some of the best picture quality I've seen on the format.

I got a sample video from Alex-1 (thanks!) that compares the HLD-X9 and CLD-R7G. At first, I didn't know which sample represented which player and figured it out after some comparisons so I'll let you do the same blind test as me and see if you can get it right.

And on the S9, setting the comb filter either 1 notch up from off or one notch down from full 3D will put it in the C. Wide mode like the X9 has - but I can't figure out from the Japanese translation of the engineers notes which setting puts it in C. Wide due to the machine translation.

And the mystery about C.Wide is known now also to me. A japanese friend translated it from my manual:
He writes: you switch on c.wide, when you have strong picture noise in movements at dark colors.
But this 3D converting technique creates a little bit pixelated noise.
This is why this method is not recommended for normal use. It is a litte experimental.

In the X9/R7G comparison, there's a noisier quality to the second shots, so I suspect that's the R7G. It has great electronics, but the core player (basically a 406) is nowhere near as high-end as the X9 (a 704-ish player w/red laser).

Actually, the second shots are from the X9. It can be clearly seen as the colors are brighter and rainbowing is more visible in the guy's hair on the second example.

Huh. My 406 was adjusted way too dark when I got it, maybe the R7G could use a tuning, too.

(edit: Forgot about Japanese IRE. Got a flu soon after getting back from vacation, fever's gone but my brain isn't all back yet )

no, that's how the R7G is, gives a nice image with real blacks.
was waiting for someone else to post before I did

the 503 I have has a brighter image than the R7G, just how it was made, also don't forget it has that black level deal that Japan uses different than us
an adjustment here or there on your TV and its the same without having to go into turning trimpots or anything like that.

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the rein-o official signature:

If you have a player like the R7G with the D-EXT function, its purpose is NOT to give blacker blacks, or act as a picture enhancer, etc... What is it for then? About half the Japanese LaserDisc's are mastered with USA's 7.5 IRE setup since the US master tape was used directly. So, you turn on D-EXT and align your player to proper NTSC levels with VE or AVS and keep D-EXT on for all US discs and Japanese discs.until you come across one that is obviously mastered to the NTSC-J standard - then you turn off D-EXT and all the levels, including color will be exactly correct for NTSC-J - and with no fiddling with brightness, color levels, etc. That info came straight from Pioneer Japan. Since I've learned that I've had no frustrations with trying to determine if I got the levels and color correct on a Japanese NTSC-J mastered disc - I just wish they would have made a note of NTSC-M or NTSC-J on the jackets. When it came to LaserDisc transfers there was no consistent standard for LaserDisc between US NTSC and Japanese NTSC. (And the US could have dropped NTSC set up back in the early 60's because the reasons for its being had been fixed by then.)

On all the DVL models, both US and Japan, the darker movie mode IS D-EXT, so they should be calibrated in that mode. It doesn't apply to DVD's though.

Now all the bizarre explanations and uses for D-EXT can stop.

thanks disclord, I knew you would clear it up.

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the rein-o official signature:

from me too.

I think it'd be useful to see the R7G vs X9 screencaps with proper adjustments, right now the brightness is too different to make a really good comparison. Also the VE zone plate is useful for figuring out TBC accuracy and true player noise - look at the 400 line bits. On my 406 it's a bit wavy, but it's rock solid on a 3080 (which could use a proper tuneup/lubing for other things, I think)

@nissling
Top first shots definitely look better to my eyes. Noticed over-contrast and blurred subtitles (Chinese?) right away in second shots, and pale colors.

Might post new captures after adjusting pvr-150 (had combing phase limit maxed out; caused ugly fuzz on NES games and artificial noise). I think I'll stop with dot-crawl virtualdub filters on LD; they're great filters for games, but I get motion blur, smudging and smearing on LDs. Also got monitor and stuff back from friend .

Edit:
Evil Dead 2 Vestron with LD-717 (pvr-150 yv12: no filters or agc except 5 line combing. Added saturation and lowered brightness in VLC)
taken down

@nissling
Found some less expensive capture cards that might be worth getting:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815100049&cm_re=avermedia_hd-_-15-100-049-_-Product.
Forget what I said earlier about the startech. This might be better, and it even has composite, svideo, low-profile bracket, and it's $72.00 right now.

Fantasia Deluxe CAV set. LD-V4200 and PVR-150; no filtering, no agc, 5 line combing, and a dose of saturation and brightness from VLC:
taken down
taken down

@nissling
Those DTS experience shots are epic! Especially like that last one (cartoon with bulb).

Has anyone ever done screenshots of the LD of THE MATRIX? Since seeing a 35mm print last night and comparing the different versions, I'm wondering if the rumors are true and that the LD has a slightly different look in addition to slightly sweeter ac3 track.

it does, every release on DVD or bluray disc has a bluey hue to it, and the LD version has the theatrical green hue..It gives it a more gritty pirated look to it....the sound will blow your head off on LD,as always.....

I've gove the Laserdisc and can provide some captures later today.

There's a handful of screenshots in this thread if it helps: THE MATRIX (1999) Dolby Stereo Digital AC-3

I experimented quite some time ago with running a player through my PC and captured a few screenshots, they were pretty awful but I grabbed a few of the Matrix. I'll see if I can find them somewhere.

Update: Found them. I only took screenshots for one scene and they're pretty rough due to a combination of the poor player I was using at the time and a cheap RCA to USB cable but it gives an idea of the colours on the disc:






Let me know if there are any specific scenes that you'd like to compare and I can take a few snaps of them.