I use a combination of a stand alone 3D combfilter and DVDO VP20 scaler. Very happy with the results. So much actually that I had this setup for about 3 years now.

I was thinking of getting a Framemeister XRGB-Mini (for use with a Pioneer CLD-79 and a 4K OLED TV), but could anyone tell me if I need to get a voltage converter? (I'm in the U.S.)

I used to use a Framemeister for retro games (I use an OSSC now and have never looked back) and I had the power adapter it came with plugged into a surge protector without any apparent problems. "100-240V~ 50/60Hz 0.5A -> 5V 2A". Of course, I'm sure someone will tell you I was an idiot for doing so.

No. That should be fine for use in the US. "100V - 240V" markings means it's a multi voltage adapter that will work anywhere in the world.

I started using a better set of glasses.

Thanks! I'd love to find a Lumagen, but even if I did, I think that's out of my price range.

Just updated my setup.

Signal from the laserdisc player first goes in to iscan pro ( which cleans it up and turns it in to a progressive 480P signal ) then through component in to DVDO iscan VP20 which scales it to 1080P.
Results are very good. Most of the video noise gone, and image as sharp as it can be.

I am confused Ilja, why do you need two DVDO's?

I would do iscan pro to 480p plus vp20 to 720p plus vp50 to 1080p then watch it on a 768p plasma.

I think I am in the right thread here.
I have a pioneer 2950 and am currently running composite to my pioneer amp as my LG c8 does not have a composite input.
If I use a scart to HDMi box would that be better than running it through the amp as it would mean the c8 would be doing all the scaling work directly, right?

No, in that case the adapter you buy would be doing at least part of the scaling and all of the comb filtering. This is the most important step since scaling 480p to 4K is relatively trivial.

I would look again for the composite input on that TV, make absolutely sure it’s not there, then sell the TV. It’s useless to a fan of old video formats. Any decent stand alone scaler costs more than an LG TV.

Yes, check the manual to confirm.

You can pickup used TVs that make LDs look great for often cheaper than the players themselves.

Before you look for another TV (especially because LG OLEDs are damn good TVs), I'd take some time to reassess the results you're currently getting from your amp. Remember: all laserdisc video is composite and interlaced. Deinterlaced video - no matter how good your TV, amp, or other device is at recognizing telecine - is always going to look balkier in motion than progressive video. So before you buy anything beyond the essential, it's important to have a good idea of which visual deficiencies are due to your equipment and which are due to the nature of the format. Easier said than done, I know, but the alternative could be burning a hole in your wallet and still not being satisfied with what you're seeing.

Sadly, it’s very hard to judge that when you only have one player and one TV.

Which Pioneer amp/receiver do you have? Knowing this might help others familiar with it chime in about its video processing capabilities. It may just be a case of adjusting expectations.

I'm currently using my Marantz SR6011 AVR for comb, A/D, and deinterlacing and then sending the 480p 4:3 signal on to my Epson 4000 projector over HDMI for scaling to 1080p and aspect ratio zoom (for Letterbox discs). Without adding a stand-alone Video Processor (which I've considered), this is the only path I have since the projector does not have composite input and will not do aspect ratio zoom for resolutions above 480p. For the number of LDs I watch (1 or 2 a month, unless I happen to get click-happy on eBay), this path works reliably and acceptably... unless I just stumble on a great deal on a VP30/VP50/similar, it's just not worth the cost for my occasional usage.

Also, PLEASE DO NOT SELL YOUR TV just to get one with a composite video input. That's like telling a single guy to sell his Corvette because once a month he takes his nieces/nephews out for ice cream. An LG OLED is a purpose-built machine, and that purpose is excellent image quality for 4K/UHD/HDR and 1080p/SDR digital content (which I'll bet is still 90% or more of your viewing). If you're watching a couple of LDs a month, just stick with your AVR as VP and maybe consider a player upgrade at some point (you mention an interest in AC3 in another thread). If you're watching more LDs than other physical media (but still less than streaming content), maybe consider dropping $150-$300 on a stand-alone VP or put together a retro system (4:3 CRT, vintage AVR with built-in AC3 Demod, budget 5.1 speakers/sub, etc) in another room.

Regardless of where you land, manage your expectations, prioritize how you consume most of your media, and let those be the bounds of how you optimized your LD consumption.

Have we told him to calibrate his set before spending all that money? If he’s watching LDs in Vivid they will all look terrible even after spending thousands.

No, but we absolutely should. With a set that nice, I'd even go as far as recommending a full ISF calibration (for both SDR and HDR), along with a spot-check from a calibration LD and associated calibration preset just for LD playback.

As if I would sell the TV I love just to get composite
I have a pioneer vsx-930 amp. When I get some CAV discs I’ll post some images and you can decide how good/poor the image is.
I also have a 29 inch PVM so I might hook it up to that as that should give a better indication of the player’s quality.

Why CAV?

And yeah, a 29” PVM is a good reference. PVMs are not made for viewing hours of composite TV in a home. They display faults in the signal instead of hiding them like a Wega but they are at least a quality CRT. You may be very frustrated with how hard it will be to achieve the same results on a new device that doesn’t even have the inputs needed for LD. I’ve yet to see LD on any display in person that looks as good as it does on even an average CRT from the early 2000s.

“No, you don’t understand. I just bought a really huge TV and I’ve always wanted a huge TV, it has to be the one, it was expensive, big, etc...” yeah, but your decades old LD player doesn’t care. It vastly prefers other tech of the same period. Rather than spending $$$ trying to modify your old MG TC to run on unleaded gas...just decide it’s only for the race track now, change nothing, and use leaded gas.

I suggested selling it as a joke...but only sort of. Many new 4K TVs do an amazing job with composite video and yours seems to not do it at all. That’s an uphill struggle you elected to commit to. Good scalers cost more than good TVs now. You could off it and buy a Sony and just not have this issue...which *seems* insane now, I admit, but...keep a tab of how much you spend on adaptor doodads. It may add up to something even crazier and produce lesser results than just cutting your losses now.

As someone who grew up with an average CRT in the early 2000s (albeit with DVD and VHS, not LD)... I'd still take the big 4K TV with a decent deinterlacer in between. I was literally just thinking this evening while watching an LD, "This still looks better than anything I saw on the old TV at home before we got a flatscreen." It's brighter and clearer, the color's better, details in dark areas aren't getting crushed, I'm not losing a bunch of picture to overscan, etc. Granted, if I could go back in time and tweak the settings of that average CRT now that I know more about video in general than anyone in my house did growing up, maybe it'd be a different story.

I miss the simplicity and no-fuss compatibility of CRTs (especially for games), but I can't say I miss the results when it comes to movies (and anime in particular).