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ldfan
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Post subject: Re: CLD-3070 tray  Posted: 08 Feb 2021, 23:26 |
Hardcore fan |
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Joined: 28 Jun 2014, 05:59 Posts: 1367 Location: San Francisco, CA USA Has thanked: 376 times Been thanked: 486 times
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Stand corrected. Thanks for info Kurtis. Barely had anytime to familiarize myself with this particular Alpha Turn design (mostly played with the CLD-3090 and later players). I guess I’ll learn more as I start playing with my CLD-97 down the road.
Last edited by ldfan on 08 Feb 2021, 23:40, edited 1 time in total.
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cplusplus
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Post subject: Re: CLD-3070 tray  Posted: 08 Feb 2021, 23:49 |
Hardcore fan |
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Joined: 13 Aug 2018, 03:18 Posts: 1509 Has thanked: 442 times Been thanked: 582 times
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I'm not sure you can find someone even in NYC that is worth paying for LD service.
This unit has dark orange, syrup-like grease slathered all over inside it. The loading mechanism is an absolute nightmare.
You can take the top off, unscrew the two screws (four total) on each of the two cross supports that hold the top boards and prop them up. Unscrew the two screws near the front that keep the tray from sliding all the way out. Remove the tray.
Now normally, you would want to do a full disassembly and cleaning to resolve this properly, but this loading section so awful I would clean off the orange goop you can see without disassembly and replace it with white lithium grease or Molykote EM-30L (I just switched to this grease and really like it). With that portioned greased, either eject or load (opposite of whatever it just was) and then clean and grease again as you will notice different portions are now accessible.
Finally, these do use the red belts but my CLD-3070's is noticeably too loose. Under where the tray usually is, you will see a black plastic sheet held in by a few back plastic fasteners. These pull directly up if you slide a small flathead under them. Under need the plastic sheet, you will see the red toothed loading belt. Press eject/load and make sure it isn't slipping.
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ldfan
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Post subject: Re: CLD-3070 tray  Posted: 22 Feb 2021, 06:35 |
Hardcore fan |
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Joined: 28 Jun 2014, 05:59 Posts: 1367 Location: San Francisco, CA USA Has thanked: 376 times Been thanked: 486 times
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Well.... I just spent 7 hours the last two days fixing this exact issue on a CLD-3070. Definitely need more than just the service manual but someone who has done the repair before (thanks cplusplus  ). Glad I was able to diagnose the issue down to one gear that was gummed up but putting the loading tray back together took up the bulk of my time. In the end, it probably wasn't worth the time to fix it but I'm happy I learned a lot about repairing these mechanical issues and now have a better understanding of the timing gears. 
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cplusplus
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Post subject: Re: CLD-3070 tray  Posted: 24 Feb 2021, 02:16 |
Hardcore fan |
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Joined: 13 Aug 2018, 03:18 Posts: 1509 Has thanked: 442 times Been thanked: 582 times
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ldfan wrote: In the end, it probably wasn't worth the time to fix it I think the CLD-3070 is sort of borderline on that. Not that it isn't a worthy player, but the amount of time and difficulty of rebuilding the loading assembly heavily weighs against it. It really is worse than words can describe 
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ldfan
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Post subject: Re: CLD-3070 tray  Posted: 24 Feb 2021, 04:32 |
Hardcore fan |
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Joined: 28 Jun 2014, 05:59 Posts: 1367 Location: San Francisco, CA USA Has thanked: 376 times Been thanked: 486 times
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It’s definitely a worthy player to fix (I just didn’t profit on it for the time spent). It’s definitely a beautiful machine that matches up nicely with my CLD-3030. Great build quality is really the best thing about it when you compare it to a CLD-D704. Since I have it for a few more days, I’m going to research points for an AC3 mod in case I end up with one of these babies in the future. 
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johnmeyer
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Post subject: Re: CLD-3070 tray  Posted: 17 May 2022, 04:42 |
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Joined: 30 Oct 2015, 20:35 Posts: 2 Location: United States Has thanked: 0 time Been thanked: 2 times
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I realize that this topic is a little out of date, but since I just fixed my CLD-3070, I thought I should post.
I had the same problem as the OP: the tray wouldn't open. I read all the posts, here and elsewhere, and definitely did not want to completely disassemble the unit and then wrangle getting the gear timing correct when I put it back together.
So, here's what I did.
First, I took off the top cover (four side screws, three back screws) and then removed the front cover (five screws on top, tip it forward, and lift out). I kept the front panel connected, but put it off on the side. Next, I powered up, pressed the "open" button, and tried to open it by pulling on the drawer. I could hear the motor straining, but nothing happened. I quickly turned it off so as not to harm the motor.
The next thing I did is why I'm posting.
I have a can of circuit board cleaner. It is amazingly benign to all sorts of plastic and electronic parts, but it still needs to be used judiciously. It does an amazing job of breaking down things like grease, simply through chemical action. I first put some paper towels under the gears. Then, using the long thin tube that comes with the can of cleaner, I lightly sprayed the cleaner on the gears, the gear pins, and also sprayed a little above the motor (the can at the front, just behind the door).
I then tried, several times, to get it to open. The biggest hangup was on the right side, where the mechanism rides up in a slot before it comes forward. I couldn't reach that with my spray without making a mess of things, so I just kept cycling the unit (STOP, then PLAY, then OFF). After 3-4 cycles, it started to unstick.
When the drawer finally opened, it was very slow and very noisy. Once it popped up, I was able to assist it coming out merely by pulling on the drawer. (Note: I learned that the main problem getting it to open is that it must first go up, guided by a nylon rail on the right side of the drawer, about halfway back inside the unit).
I then took a dry toothbrush and, with the paper towels spread out underneath inside the unit, and with the drawer still open, I gently brushed off a lot of dry grease. I also removed the three screws from the big circuit board on the right side (looking from the front) and tipped it up. This gave me much better access to the nylon channel in the middle of the right side. I used lots of paper towel pieces, wetted with a little 99% isopropyl alcohol, and cleaned out that white nylon channel. I never made more than one pass with a wetted towel in order to avoid making a mess.
Every few minutes, as I continued the cleaning, I plugged it in and cycled the door open and closed.
Eventually is opened and closed easily, but the gears were chattering horribly, probably because I had stripped off most of the lubrication. I then took some Lubriplate and, using a cut-off cotton swab (no cotton, just the stick) I applied a very small amount of lubricant to each gear. As I did this, I manually pushed the drawer in and out, to get the lubrication to spread out. If any of the lubrication ended up on the top or bottom of the gear, I wiped it off.
The whole procedure took 10-15 minutes. At the end of this time, the drawer opened and closed perfectly, with no chattering, no slowdown, etc. As of this writing, it operates as it did when I bought it back around 1990.
Bottom line: I was able to solve the problem without major surgery.
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