Good evening everyone, first post here. Threads on this forum got me this far but now getting stuck in a continuing attempt to repair a Pioneer CLD-RG7.

I purchased the Pioneer CLD-RG7 from Japan last year and it worked quite well for a few months and then suddenly it stopped working and showed the H2 error on the display. Perhaps coincidental but the player had been moved to an outdoor building and did see some colder temperatures at night. My understanding is that the H2 error code is related to the power supply typically having a fault. The player would power on, show the H2 error and then power down. After about a week the player went totally dead and would not power on at all.

The board was tested and no voltage 12V or 5V was being generated on the secondary side of the board. All the electrolytic cylindrical capacitors were removed from the board and replaced with equivalent Panasonic or Nichicon’s. Picture 1 shows the board layout and the readings for each capacitor tested on an ESR meter. Capacitors C208, C222, and C223 tested bad showing low capacitance and/or high resistance readings. I was hoping replacing these capacitors would fix the issue but that was not the case as the player would still not power on.

Next up the board was traced, and two fuses were found to be blown. These were very small fuses, F204 and F205 (125V 1A) and were hard to locate or see, I totally missed them on the first round of board inspection. These tiny fuses were replaced as shown in picture 2. After replacing the fuses, the unit would still not power on but did make a faint high-pitched noise when plugged in which is progress.

I then tested voltage on the board and found that no power was getting past the main transformer T101. Voltage was tracing to the input legs of the transformer but nothing on the output. Picture 3 shows the transformer, and it appears to show discoloration and some bulging. Could this be the next thing to replace? Picture 4 shows the condition of the player case inside cover. It is interesting that the inside has a dark residue.

I also looked at the primary power supply diode D105. This gave inconsistent readings tested in-board so a new one is on order from Mouser and will the next component to be replaced.

If the diode replacement does not work, what should be considered next? Pictures 5 and 6 show the current state of the board.

Thank you for any insight you can provide.

If the two fuses were blown that means something after the fuses is pulling too much current. As for D105 that is not a diode, it is an arc suppressor, it should measure open. If it was bad your primary side input fuse would blow.

First power on the board isolated from the player. You should read +5volts on the EV+5V signal. Then short that to the power on pin and if the supply comes up with all voltages then the supply is good. If good then you need to focus on the other boards in the unit and measure for voltage line shorts.

Arc suppressor D105 was replaced only as the new one showed up, unsurprisingly it did nothing to fix the board.

Per the suggestion by krbahr the power supply board was removed from the player, powered on, and traced. I made a cradle using cardboard and a hot glue gun, it made tracing super easy and stopped the board from tipping around.

Input voltage on the supply side was good at 110V, secondary side of the transformer showed 20V which seemed normal. On the output side, pin #2 was good showing at 20V, but pin #5 showed 0V when it should be showing 5V. No voltage at this pin meant that shorting to pin #6 or pushing the power switch would not enable the power supply.

Next up the board was traced backwards starting at pin #5. The very next component upstream of the pin is IC211. When I measured voltage on this component it showed 0V on one leg and 5V on the other! This component was not allowing current to pass onto pin #5. The component IC211 is a current protection transistor, Rohm ICP-N20, that should read an internal resistance of 0.1 ohm. When I pulled the transistor it measured O.L. so a new one was ordered.

I replaced the transistor and powered the board again and measured voltage at pin #5 and it now showed 5V. This was promising so I put the board back in the player and hit the power button resulting in ... success! After five months of work the board finally powered on and plays discs again and I finally got to watch Aliens on Laserdisc!

Attached are a few pictures showing IC211, back of the board, the final paper worksheet, and the mentioned trace points.

A few more pictures showing the Pin #5 at 5V and a close up of IC211.

Glad you got it going again

Well done!

At least, we know that the error code can be trusted.

=> H2 or A0 = Power supply abnormality error

Julien