I'm looking at the 3080 manual, and it looks like a lot more work. One would have to remove the disk tray, etc. The S2 is difficult, according to Duncan, but probably better than the V8000 if you have the jig to run the pickup outside of the player.

In general, the later players (especially 703 and 604 generations, R7G among them) are much easier to adjust, there are far fewer circuit boards and none of them are facing downwards. Test points and such are also usually clearly marked.

disclord, very cool info, thanks for the post.

it's interesting to me to read about the history of this and such.

A guide on laser alignment would be really, really helpful. The first and only time I sent a player out for calibration resulted in my player never coming home, so honestly? I'd rather just learn to do it myself.

Hello, I wonder which of the screws, handles made calibration, as my player suffers crosstalk problems on both sides

hauntmedoitagain: It's a bit different for Panasonic players. I think Kurtis has adjusted a couple but said it wasn't easy. For starting out I'd recommend any >=1995 Pioneer design.

gary: What player do you have? (and welcome to lddb!)

If it used to be fine and now has issues and there have been no adjustments our moves then the laser is just going bad

Doing your own alignment will become important as old pros can go MIA (Duncan) leaving this a rarer skill as time goes on. Scopes are quite cheap used, even a old lab grade Tektronix is pretty affordable, and figuring how to do this would be great for those who collect players in their own right.

I wish I had seen this thread earlier. I now believe alignment is the problem I've been having with my LD-S9, posted here:

http://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?t=6015