My CLD-D503 is working fine, but sometimes if it hasn't been used in a while it takes a bit for the spin down during eject. Sometimes up to 15-20 seconds (actual one-banana, two-banana, etc seconds). From what I can gather, I need part VEB1237 to replace the upper rubber clamp. Just want to verify this is correct.

My CLD-D505 is working just fine again, but I did notice my CLD-D503 and the CLD-3030 are so much quieter in operation. Especially during the first few moments of starting a side or during a CAV disc. Is the 505 just loud by design or does the rubber clamp need replaced as well? If so, what is the part number?

I am also wondering how to clean these clamps properly. I have read in the past that some people have used armor-all and other similar products to rejuvenate rubber pieces. Especially for moldings,etc on cars and motorcycles with good results.

The final thing I am looking for is a parts manual (not service manual) for the CLD-3030, CLD-D503, and CLD-D505 players so I can see parts blow-out diagrams and know the part numbers to search for in the future.

Yes, that is the part for the 503, the 505 has a different clamp surface and doesn't need replacing.

Okay. So the 505 is just noisy at the beginning of sides and CAV discs in general? It looks like the 503 was a much better unit in terms of construction. The M-Holder for that model is different and looks to be of higher quality and there's more space to work in it.

The loudness of the 505 isn't a huge deal breaker for me, but just want some verification on that aspect of it. Otherwise, it works well and it's been my main player for a couple of years.

Amazingly, the rubber piece showed up before the M-Holder did. I went to open up the 503 and the rubber clamp on there looks OK. The bumps on the rubber don't look terribly worn and I could still feel them.

If this piece is worn out is it difficult to tell by eye verification?

Yeah - the 503 (same as the 703/704 mechanically) and 505 (revised 504, a last-gen CLD) are quite different designs. (edit: and mechanical parts from all the last-gen players are pretty much interchangeable - even some parts from DVL's would work)

For the rubber bit I'd look at the results (i.e. how long the disk needs to slow down) - rubber tends to dry out while keeping the same shape.

If you need a 505 for parts, I have one that needs a new power supply fuse (it worked fine before that blew out.) PM me if interested.

Happycube: Then I guess I need to replace it. It looks like it's just a small rubber piece that has double-sided tape. I have the new part. Is it just as simple as removing the old one with a pick tool or something similar (seem to be rather stuck on there), cleaning up the spindle, and then placing the new one on?

I recall reading around here that at some point someone was cutting up bicycle inner tubes to make these. Maybe I can get the dimensions of the part and post them for DIYers. I may even try this myself at some point.

That sounds right, but wait for someone who's actually done it to chime in.

And a bike tube would be cool in the long run once Pioneer doesn't carry them... I remember reading that people did that for the 7820, but hadn't heard of that for the 503/70x.

The rubber is very thin, you should be able to peel it off without leaving anything, or at least I did.
Don't think innertube rubber is thin enough.

You can't feel any difference, or I wasn't able to.
Good luck and get it flat, don't pull it back up once down, once and done, perfection at its best.

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OK. I'll try and replace it this weekend.

Regarding the inner tube... maybe you can buy thin sheets of rubber intended for making rubber gaskets or something similar and it may hold up. Inner tube rubber appeared to me like it might be OK but might have the disc be on the clamp a little tighter. Not sure if that would put some undue strain on the bearings but I would think a little extra strain wouldn't hurt it too much.