I picked up a used CLD-D504. I'm using composite out to my LG oled. The images from all my laserdiscs look poor. The picture from my discs looks like it has a fine grid pattern in it. On both CAV and CLV discs, the image looks like its being projected onto a woven cloth, but on the diagonal. There's also sometimes an ever so slight double-image, just to the right of the object on the screen. Lastly, when I pause a CAV disc, the image jitters horizontally. Normal? I've posted some pics below. You can see some moiré patterns, but look at the double image of the stair rails. And in that same image, you can see the green foliage has some diagonal streaking.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/aviMXStYo5cebGuN7

Need Video Essentials (1996) [ID3487ISF] with included blue filter to set your display settings to the optimal values. Jitter is normal on CAV stills with modern display.

Thanks for the reply.
Gotcha on the jitter.
The display is set to optimal settings. I've been doing that will all my TV's for many years.

BTW...I added a link to images in a reply.

Just to be clear: LD needs different settings than your other inputs. Even different LD players can have different optimal settings.

i.e. sharpness turned to 0 or 1, contrast/picture/color/tint set using Video Essentials will make a substantial improvement in picture quality. The CLD-D504 is not a head-turner, but at the same time that player should not look as bad as you described. The fine grid pattern you described is what I have seen when sharpness, brightness, etc are way off.

Right. Sharpness is at zero. All the other settings are close enough. I had laserdiscs back in the 90's. I used A Video Standard laserdisc to adjust picture settings back then. The image is blurry and noisy. The main problem is the faint diagonal cross hatching over the entire picture that makes it look like a projected image on a woven cloth. It's hard to photograph because moire pattern can obscure it. Did u look at the pics I linked to? They look bad. That's what the image looks like. There's a slight ghosting. U can easily see it on the railing on the stairs

It just looks way too bright to me, but there are a lot of people here that know more about this than me though. I can tell you a lot about players, but when it comes to playback I just plug it in via composite, run VE, maybe adjust some NR settings and call it a day. I feel a rough rule of thumb is it should look better than VHS.

I may see some crosstalk there but it’s hard to tell from the pics. If it happens on CAV discs it’s not crosstalk.

It also looks too bright to me.

If you try to get too much brightness/contrast out of LD it will look like total crap, amplify all noise, move the blacks way up, etc.

It must just be the way I took the photos. The brightness in real life matches that of my other sources. My two lg oled's (and my benq projector) have been setup with several calibration discs. Disney wow and spears n munsil to name a couple. I probably had 5 or 6 various laserdisc players back in the mid to late 90's. I remember comparing my laserdiscs to the brand new dvd discs of the day. DVD seemed just a tad sharper back then. The images this 504 is producing look like vhs. Really disappointing. I should've taken a pic of a scene from my 50th anniversary Casablanca CAV box set. It had that same diagonal grid pattern over the entire screen. You know what chicken wire looks like? It's like that but much smaller.
Do you see the pic of the man standing near the stair rail? You see that double image of the rails?

Does the pattern move around or is it fixed? Is it “herringbone”?

Comparing the brightness of other sources...that has nothing to do with anything. Unless you have a calibration laserdisc you can’t calibrate your TV for your Laserdisc player. This is true of every machine you hook up. They all need to playback their own test patterns. You can’t just copy your Blu-ray player settings over and the expect that to translate. I’m not saying this is your issue, just clarifying...

In the broad scheme of things LD is comparable to VHS, but neither should have an interference pattern in any case.

I'm not opening the pic as its asking me to verify who I am and I'm already signed in with poogle.

Anyway posting pics here would be great, even new ones.

Does the screen image only happen on projectors, I've read about the screen door issue but it was a long time ago on projectors,
wonder if the settings are wrong and its happening on the TV also????

Keep adjusting, when I moved once my CLD-D503 looked better than my CLD-R7G
Had everything adjusted for my one apartment with lighting etc but when moving into another house with different lighting etc it was all
messed up and had to adjust again.

Sorry for the delayed response. Been out of town.

The entire image appears to have a small, fixed, diagonal-grid cross-hatching across it. It's more prominent in the brighter parts of the image, but that may just be because it's easier to see there.
I wish this was related to my TV's picture settings. I've had quite a few laserdisc players over the years. There's definitely something wrong with the video image coming from the player.

I haven't tried this player with my projector. I had described the image I'm seeing on my tv "as if" it were being displayed on a woven screen. There is a fixed diagonal grid pattern in the video. It is not due to a Tv picture display setting. I wish it were.

Try a different display.

This is absolutely true for analog/LD, but should not be the case for properly designed digital sources without known color space issues (at least for SDR/Rec.709, but truthfully even HDR/BT2020, as most of the variance is related to mastering, not playback). If you're seeing vastly different calibration from one Rec.709 digital source to the next, there's something going on within the player itself (likely some sort of processing that can be disabled, occasionally some sort of sharpness/dithering that can't).

A disc-based Rec.709 calibration should carry over to your other digital sources, at least within the realm of accuracy of a disc-based visual calibration (fine for luminance, only so-so for chrominance). Remember, if you're doing a visual-based calibration, you're also calibrating for the skew and limitation of your own vision. For anyone that's ponied up the cash for a C/CX display, I wouldn't hesitate to spend the $300 or so for a proper ISF calibration as well. If you have an LD disk on-hand, they can probably do a basic calibration for that input for you as well, and do a better job than you could on your own.

I did. Same result