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 Post subject: [CLD-D780] Won't power up - PCB re-cap (FIXED!)  Topic is solved
PostPosted: 18 Dec 2020, 05:47 
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I'm having problems powering on this player (same problems I've documented in this thread about my Onkyo player [DX-V500 - Onkyo Pioneer clone] Won't power up) so I'm going to re-cap the power board. It suddenly died recently and exhibits a "squeak" from the power board when unplugged.

I've taken the board out and to my horror, the back of the PCB (green side) appears to be coated with some sort of glaze. As a result, I can't remove the caps!

Has anyone encountered this on a LaserDisc player before and has anyone got any advice? A quick Google told me there are several different types of Conformal Coating available (I assume this is what it is?), but I've no idea which one has been used on my LD player.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

EDIT: It's fixed!!

As ldfan identified, the shiny orange-tinted glaze was easily penetrated by my soldering iron. It just took a bit longer to heat up the solder.

For reference, the CLD-D780 power board in my player was model VWR-1247-B (input 240V).

I fixed it by changing all the electrolytic capacitors on the PCB, using the list of caps posted by a Reddit user in the link below:
https://www.reddit.com/r/LaserDisc/comm ... te_signal/.

Here's the caps on the board along with Digikey reference numbers:

c6 - 250v 180uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-13309-1-ND
c11 - 250v 180uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-13309-1-ND
c12 - 50v 2.2uF ~ Digikey 493-10503-1-ND (see note)
c15 - 400v 10uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-13387-ND
c20 - 25v 2200uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-1306-ND
c21 - 25v 2200uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-1306-ND
c22 - 16v 2200uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-13390-ND
c23 - 16v 10uF (M) ~ Digikey 493-12763-1-ND
c24 - 50v 2.2uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-10503-1-ND
c25 - 50v 2.2uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-10503-1-ND
c27 - 10v 470uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-1493-ND
c28 - 25v 100uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-12560-1-ND
c29 - 10v 470uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-1493-ND
c30 - 10v 470uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-1493-ND
c31 - 16v 10uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-12763-1-ND
c32 - 35v 100uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-5925-1-ND
c35 - 50v 10uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-5915-1-ND

I replaced all of them except for c20 & c21 because they were glued to the power board and c23 and c31 because I couldn't find a suitable replacement locally. I replaced c6 and c11 with a 250v 220uF because I couldn't find 250v 180uF caps locally. These two caps were quite bulged so figured they'd be the source of the problem (however, they were not...see below)

Note: c12 was not listed in the Reddit post linked above. I replaced all the caps I could see with the exception of the ones above and it still wasn't working. I looked again at the board and spotted c12 which I had previously not noticed. When I unplugged the player, the "squeak" mentioned above seemed to be coming from this very capacitor so I removed it. Interestingly, this cap was polarized BUT the PCB indicated it was a non-polarised cap! I replaced it with a polarized cap (luckily I had a photo so I knew which way it needed to be fitted) and the beast came alive!

Hope this is of help to anyone in the future! Next project is to get the Onkyo up and running!


Last edited by brmanuk on 21 Dec 2020, 10:44, edited 3 times in total.
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 Post subject: Re: CLD-D780 power PCB re-cap problem! (Conformal Coating?)
PostPosted: 18 Dec 2020, 08:01 
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If you are speaking about what is a glossy coating that is usually on the green side of most circuit boards, I believe this is for protecting the board from shorts that could occur if a liquid is spilled on it. This is pretty common from equipment I have seen from the 80's & 90's and I'm sure it's still done in the present (although I haven't really noticed or the way they do it now has changed).

In any case, you can still solder right through the coating and it should not be a problem removing caps. The coating simply burns off once you apply the iron to the point you're trying to solder. After you replace the caps, these solder points will no longer have the coating on it and it's fine to leave it as is.
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 Post subject: Re: CLD-D780 power PCB re-cap problem! (Conformal Coating?)
PostPosted: 18 Dec 2020, 16:03 
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Green coating holds the metal copper traces in place, only the round part that you solder on is exposed.
Get a solder sucker and practice on another cheaper device first so you understand.

Good luck
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 Post subject: Re: CLD-D780 power PCB re-cap problem! (Conformal Coating?)
PostPosted: 19 Dec 2020, 06:58 
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ldfan wrote:
If you are speaking about what is a glossy coating that is usually on the green side of most circuit boards, I believe this is for protecting the board from shorts that could occur if a liquid is spilled on it. This is pretty common from equipment I have seen from the 80's & 90's and I'm sure it's still done in the present (although I haven't really noticed or the way they do it now has changed).

In any case, you can still solder right through the coating and it should not be a problem removing caps. The coating simply burns off once you apply the iron to the point you're trying to solder. After you replace the caps, these solder points will no longer have the coating on it and it's fine to leave it as is.


Really? Hmm I tried to heat it up but it was being very stubborn. In the end I used alcohol to wipe some of it off and managed to remove the cap. I have 15 more to do so I'll try removing them without rubbing off the glossy coating. Thanks!
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 Post subject: Re: CLD-D780 power PCB re-cap problem! (Conformal Coating?)
PostPosted: 19 Dec 2020, 07:17 
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Maybe you can post a pic of the board so I can see if we are on the same page. The coating is usually of a very thin film and just melts or disintegrates away w/ the iron.
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 Post subject: Re: [CLD-D780] Won't power up - PCB re-cap (FIXED!)
PostPosted: 28 Jul 2021, 15:54 
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Ive inherited today a D780 whereby there is no standby light no power...but a squeak or squeal when it is unplugged from the power - hopefully will be the same remedy...will replace C12 the 2.2uF 50Volt Electrolytic first up to see if that is the same issue.

Will report back here - thanks brmanuk for sharing what worked.
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CLD-D770 OK
CLD-2850 FLD,R201
CLD-D780 MHolder, PSU C12
CLD-2290 Digital Prob
CLD-2590K Lots issues
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 Post subject: Re: [CLD-D780] Won't power up - PCB re-cap (FIXED!)
PostPosted: 29 Jul 2021, 13:04 
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I can confirm replacement of just the one capacitor the C12 2.2uF 50V Electrolytic has fixed the PSU for my D780 !

Standby light now on and unit lights up and powers on as it should.

However I do have another issue ..seeing error U1 on the display?!... when powering on the tray will go in - you hear whirring and then it spits the tray back out..repeating the process if you let it.

Im hoping this is a VEB1184 belt replacement fix !? -
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CLD-D770 OK
CLD-2850 FLD,R201
CLD-D780 MHolder, PSU C12
CLD-2290 Digital Prob
CLD-2590K Lots issues
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