Just looking at this post thread i have a Pioneer CLD D515 player and i guess like a lot of people what seems to be the usual part has failed. My part number im advised is VNL1637 but looking at info for the player it seems that possible the parts 1779/1770 may be replacements. I cant find any to buy which again seems to be the same for most but was wondering if anyone that was trying to create a 3d part or other format was infact able to do so and is selling them or if anyone knows anywhere selling the part (a long shot i know). Thanks very much.
Hi, I've got the same plastic holder failure, I am interested too to buy a printed holder. Did anyone succeed to produce it? Deckard did you manage to ask to fireproof710? Thanks
Hey everyone. I’m in the middle of repairing a 505 with a broken m mount. I tried gluing it back together and it seemed to work, but I was getting skipping/looping problems. I am a 3D printing enthusiast and I decided to go ahead and try my hand at modeling the VLN1700. My unit has the older gray model so that’s what I’m working off of. When I’m done with the model I will release it so others can improve it and/or use it to get their players working again. I’m not interested in trying to turn it into a business or anything, I just want us to be able to fix our players. Here’s a pic of my in progress model.
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Sorry for double posting but I wanted to show one more picture of a draft print I just made to make sure the motor mounting part of the model was good before moving on to the gears. I started this project earlier this afternoon...
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Sorry for double posting but I wanted to show one more picture of a draft print I just made to make sure the motor mounting part of the model was good before moving on to the gears. I started this project earlier this afternoon...
Looks great retrocution! Would love to buy one from anyone who has a 3D printer and is able to make one.
JP
_________________ Main players: Pioneer CLD-99/CLD-97/CLD-D406
Well, I've managed to create my own modified version of the VNL 1779 that accepts metal shafts pressed into the printed part. I am happy to report that it's working for me and I am able to now watch a movie all the way through without skipping. I found this CLD-505 at a Goodwill thrift store for $19.99 and it had a lot of issues besides the broken M-Mount. Even with a genuine 1779 I doubt my player would be able to flip over to side B, but even so I am fine ejecting the disc and flipping it manually with this player as it was basically ready to go to the landfill.
Here is a pic of my finished design installed. I will make my own thread about it and I will also be posting not only the .STL files for you to print, but also the model files so you can tweak it yourselves.
I will release it into the public domain with no restrictions.
Well, I've managed to create my own modified version of the VNL 1779 that accepts metal shafts pressed into the printed part. I am happy to report that it's working for me and I am able to now watch a movie all the way through without skipping.
That sounds great. If it passes that test then.....
retrocution wrote:
I found this CLD-505 at a Goodwill thrift store for $19.99 and it had a lot of issues besides the broken M-Mount. Even with a genuine 1779 I doubt my player would be able to flip over to side B,
......it should be able to flip to the B side without issue. However, it's very possible you might need a new loading belt as well since a loose belt can affect the tilt adjustment during the B side transition as well as overall clamping strength.
......it should be able to flip to the B side without issue. However, it's very possible you might need a new loading belt as well since a loose belt can affect the tilt adjustment during the B side transition as well as overall clamping strength.
Yeah, you're probably right about that. When it tries to flip over to side B it seems like it doesn't tilt down far enough and the laser carriage hits the crossover bar on the disc tray and gets stuck. It did this with the original part I glued back together, too. I would try to change out the belt and work on it, but I'm ready to move on to other projects.
When it tries to flip over to side B it seems like it doesn't tilt down far enough and the laser carriage hits the crossover bar on the disc tray and gets stuck. It did this with the original part I glued back together, too.
Sounds more like the player still has some adjustment that is out of whack. Here is a video I just posted partially showing how my unit does a turn from Side B back to Side A. I know you're probably not interested but it could helpful to anyone else needing a visual example of a properly working Epsilon Turn unit.
Last edited by ldfan on 26 Apr 2021, 04:07, edited 1 time in total.
Sounds more like the player still has some adjustment that is out of whack. Here is a video I just posted partially showing how my unit does a turn from Side B back to Side A. I know you're probably not interested but it could helpful to anyone else needing a visual example of a properly working Epsilon Turn unit.
Great work retrocution ! I bought a house 2 years ago and had a lot of work, and moved inside some weeks ago. Now I will take some time for me and with a great pleasure: connect back my LDs!
I didn't forgot about this project and just to give a quick following, after more than 10 versions of the M holder I was not able to have something very clean and 100% identic to the original part, and lot of you know that this part is crucial, it needs to fit -perfectly- to work -perfectly-.
The history: - Some tests with SLA printing: failed - Lot of tests with MultiJet fusion printing (from a company in my town which have the machine): I could say it was near 95% ok, I have a CLD-S315 with a MultiJet printed M holder which is working perfectly, with my "final" file.
I'd say that if we want a perfect result, it will need an injection molding manufacturing. A friend told me about an company which can do it "online" so I just sent my latest STL version to have a quote... If it's not too expensive I will order a piece to try, but to be honest, your version with metal shaft seems the only cost/quality solution.
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