Hi there,

I'm requesting your help to repair my new Pioneer CLD-D515 (European 220V version). Although the previous owner cared a lot about this machine, it refuses now to start up. Even standby LED isn't lightning, after a night with machine plugged.

I'd changed the 1.6A 250V fuse with a new one but this doesn't helps. At first glance, there's not any bad capacitor or resistance. I'm not electronic-savvy... According to last owner, the player was fully functional during its latest use.

I'm attaching an images of power supply PCB.


How to make my CLD-D515 revive?

First you can check the Service Manual here => https://manuals.lddb.com/LD_Players/Pioneer/CLD/CLD-D515/

Then you'll need a voltmeter/multimeter to follow the various voltages over the PSU to see where it's failing.

Maybe give this video a try?



Julien

These are notorious for a failing PS Board
On the primary side most of the time it’s the small cap behind the big cap that fails!
It sits right behind it. Can’t remember the exact value for now but it’s one of the less common ones.
Easy job anyway to fix

"On the primary side most of the time it’s the small cap behind the big cap that fails!"

I seem to have a very similar problem as does the original poster, with the same player (CLD-D515).

For those of us who aren't tech savvy at all, which part is "the small cap behind the big cap"? Is it possible to post an image, or mark it/make it recognizable in the PS Board?

If you take a look at the shot provided at the very start of the thread, at the top left side of the board there is a large black capacitor and situated to the immediate right of it is a very small capacitor that partially sheilded by a piece of metal with 2 holes in its top side. I think this is the cap to which Kris refers although probably wise to await confirmation tbh?

That is the one! It is the cap to start up the player on the primary side

There is the fuse, NEXT TO IT THE BIG CAP and just beside that the little culprit

This one

Thank you guys very much!

So I have to find a replacement, and braze it in the same place?

Yes, you will, if that is the problem in your player (the "coincidence" that I mentioned in my response to your other post). Parts such as that are very inexpensive typically, often less than one USA dollar, but of course you have to get the same electronic value as the original part. It might be something like "ten microfarads, 100 volts" but you need to look at it once you get it un-soldered. If you do replace it, beside matching the microfarad (uF) and voltage (V) values, get a new one rated 105 degrees C (the original will either already be a 105 C part, or an 85 C part). 105 versus 85 will make the part last longer.

If you can do all of the above, you are more "tech-savvy" than you thought you were. I wish you success.

Thank you very much Chris. This looks and sounds way out of my league to be honest. But I will re-open the player and try to get the matching spare part first.

This type of stuff is not as hard as it sounds, watch some videos and its pretty easy to figure out.
If you are really going to focus on collecting older electronics or even newer you really need to work on your skills to keep this stuff going.

No techs around to do this type of work anymore on the corner, get ready for a possible new business???