Hi!

My player "died" today when electricity went out and came back immediately. I'm using a voltage regulator to use this equipment.
Opened up the DVL-909 and found the fuse to be blown. Had a spare one from a parts player (identical model), so I put that one in and tested it - it blown again.
The player worked flawless before this incident so I guess that a couple of things, including lack of electricity for a brief moment, caused some wrong voltage flow when it came back.
I googled this phenomenon and found out that this model are having a diode that is prone to fail. Someone mentioned that there was a part for this: K1V24.
I also need a new fuse 125V 3,15 amperes.
Player is a DVL-909.

What should I do?
Do I need to replace the whole circuit board or should it be enough only to replace the diode?
I know the fuse is there for several reasons and also safety, so I haven't tried any dumb solutions to make it work again.

If your good with a soldering iron, and working on board you may be able to fix the diode. Most likely finding a replacement for the diode may be a challenge. I had this same problem on a amp I was fixing. Had to find a replacement with similar specs.

Another thing to consider, more than just the diode may be burnt up. I would suggest looking over everything with a bright light and look for burnt or bulging parts. Its not a fun experience replacing a diode and then having a resistor catch fire during first start up.

It's not a diode, it is an arc suppressor. Just clip it out, buy a new fuse, somewhere like radio shack. If it makes you feel better to have arc protection then buy an outlet strip with it. These stories were poorly installed and fall to easy.

To all the contributors, thanks for replies!
I have ordered a new 3,15 amp fuse, so that should be on its way.
Where to cut it, anode side or cathode side or simply does it matter?
If it works after I have cut it, I will desolder it and replace it with a new K1V24. I found a part number at Mouser.com - Shindengen K1V24(W)-4060 - would this fit as a replacement?
Link provided: http://se.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Shin ... T25Lcinw==

Probably a good thing to eject the tray if it powers up, so it is easier to remove the power supply board.

As long as the replacement part is an arc suppressor it will work. If it is a diode you will instantly blow the fuse.

FYI, because of being overly sensitive Pioneer has changed that part to K1V26

Still waitin' for the Weller solder kit I ordered about a week ago. Got the needed parts yesterday. Clipped out the arc suppressor and installed a new fuse - it blew immediately. I did exactly as mentioned earlier in this thread, but I didn't clearly see the ultra thin wire that indicated I hadn't cut it in half as I thought I did. After the second attempt, I got it right. An extra fuse comes in handy, and in the power outlet the cable goes.
This time around it worked and I could eject the tray so it became easier to remove the board. The solder joints on the underside of the board were mostly clean, some flux residue some places - should I clean those?
Hopefully the kit will show up in a few days so I can get working on this machine.

So, nearly 1 month after the player went out of business, it's up and running again! Dealing with laserdiscs brings me more into technical and electrical stuff and I have always wanted to learn how to solder. Would call myself lucky as the first solder joint I have ever made, was today when replacing the arc suppressor.
So, as a celebration I have loaded the AC/DC Live at Donington laserdisc and it is spinning to get me in the mood!
Thanks for all help and informative answers!

Congrats!