Does anyone have a parts list and service manual scan for the CLD-1030?

Part list is in the SM.

CLD-1200 should be close enough for disassembly and probably adjustments too:
https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_libra ... 1200.shtml

Don't go tinkering unless you have to though

Does anyone have the service manual? I used to know the part number for the laser pickup assembly. Mine works fine for the most part, except about half way through the disc the colour drops out then it becomes grayscale for a few seconds here and there. My guess is the ribbon cable on it. I tried playing with it before. It's not a HUGE deal, but I remember there was a NOS pickup assembly to be found on ebay a few years ago. I'll need the SM in case I have to do alignment procedure for the assembly, which I assume will be necessary.

Pickup assembly should be VWY1011 since CLD-1200 and CLD-3030 both use it (as well as LD-V2200, LD-W1, LD-V180, and more)

VWY1011 is composed of:
VXX1056 Actuator assembly
VXX1094 Sensor assembly
VXX1095 Pre-pickup assembly

Personally, I wouldn't put a NOS pickup in a CLD-1030. I'd instead just use that to buy a CLD-3030 and then have the CLD-1030 as a donor when necessary. The CLD-3030 is wonderful.

Does the audio still sound good when it goes to grayscale? This on CAV and CLV?

Audio still good, CLV but I don't own many CAV-only discs so I'm unsure if CAV is affected. I haven't used the player in a couple of years. It's mostly a backup unit. With that said the CLD-1200 manual does list this symptom and that it can be tuned in the "Burst Gate Position Adjustment" procedure. Apparently this doesn't require any specific test disc for this procedure. So it might be worth checking with the scope to see if the alignment has drifted slightly for this due to aging components and/or dirty adjustment pot.

With all that said, it looks like the "J1" test disc is NLA and doesn't appear to be listed in LDDB (but others like "N2" are listed). The GGV1069 is still available. I'm assuming that the disc is basically the same, except the chapter numbers and frame number are different so I'll have to figure some of that out myself. Maybe it's worth investing in getting the GGV1069 disc?

SM will always reference some disc that is no longer attainable. It can all be done with GGV1069 (disregarding PAL only units of course).

You have to have GGV1069 to make sure there is no crosstalk in the picture.

That's what I figured. Thanks for confirming. Probably won't get around to this project for another month or two at least, but when I finally do I will post results.

when the LD transverse assembly on my 3030 crapped out on me 7 or 8 years back, i bought a 1030 and made a direct swap-out,
also performing a full tear-down, -relube and refit on the 3030 chassis along the way- and the resultant player has been healthy and reliable to this day...

I still have that CLD-1030 thanks to you. I actually used it for the first time in over a year today and I haven't had the colour drop out issue this time around. So it could have been a number of factors: cables, the TV itself, etc. Still a great backup player, I think ironically I'll end up using it more often as the double sided players are more of a pain to maintain in the long term IMO.

yeah, there was a time when i lusted after a CLD-3070/91/92, but then the longer i owned a 3030,
and, especially after finding how simple it was to do basic maintenance upon, the less burning the desire for any other LDP i found in myself.

oh no, if someone were to, say, up and give me a 3070 variant, -or, say, i found one in the wild for a good price-
the last thing i'd do is turn my nose up at the opportunity.

even so, i seem to to find myself quite content with the notion of the 3030 remaining the best and final LDP i own...

I never tried the 3030, but the 1030 works good for my needs. I'm using an early 90s RCA Console CRT to watch most of my LDs on, then theres a late 70s MGA CRT I have as well that the 1030 is mostly plugged into. The picture quality is good on those smaller sets, I think in my case upgrading to some top of the line stuff I won't see the benefit as much. Good call on recommending the 1030 to me years ago, a nice cheap and reliable player. The CLD-D503 and CLD-D505's that I use tend to require some kind of TLC to them every couple of years but the 1030 has never given me any real issues, minus the gear that got broke in shipping but I was able to fix that with some 3M panel bond in the body shop.

I've never done any real maintenance to the 1030. What belts are needed? I probably should change them out and grease things. I do have proper Molykote for this purpose.

VEB-125
VEB1029

You shouldn't need to change these since they are the red toothed ones.

I removed all the grease that had turned green on the threaded metal rod the pickup travels along and replaced it. I'm thinking I might pull the power supply for a recap if I ever get the time. My repairs have really backed up.

I think Tasuke has completely rebuilt one of these before though, so I will certainly defer.

That's good, I shouldn't have to worry about those belts unless they completely dry rot. I did see a thread somewhere on here where someone found generic ones that are for sewing machines that should work if you count the length. I might give that a try some day.

I don't blindly recap everything like I used to. I've found that it's usually unnecessary unless you're getting some kind of ground hum, interference in video, etc. Some stuff it tends to be way more trouble than it's worth for preventative maintenance. If you're using it semi-frequently they seem to hold up OK. But, I know some here will disagree with that. Some older PCBs don't take too kindly to being reworked. Can't say one way or the other for LD players; but Vectrex and some old TVs, etc. the vias end up desoldering with it no matter how careful you are and it turns into a mess.

I remember back in my arcade days that when you did a recap you really had to replace all at once.
I was told if you left some old caps that they would make a new failure faster due to the new and old, don't know enough about it just remember something like that.

Caps I think are easier on these LD players than the CRT monitors I used to do, also those were always filthy and sometimes due to heat generated
the boards or traces would be coming up or breaking so a lot of wire and glue was needed.
Not fun.

Yeah, those arcade CRTs see a lot of abuse.

I never heard about new caps making the old ones fail faster. Not sure if it's similar to fixing the plumbing on a car... where you fix one leak now the flow is proper there so new problems arise in the weak link in the chain. Sounds plausible, but I'm not an EE or even a proper certified repairman.

Recapping the power supply of a functioning player is a tad excessive, but it only takes me about 30 minutes and $15. I use better capacitors than what the unit shipped with. Nichicon UPW/UPA. Any time I pull a power supply I just go ahead and do a full recap.

For reference, this is similar to the CLD-1030/3030 supply: https://www.domesday86.com/?page_id=2874

It is more important to re-grease though. Also if you get GGV1069 you can check for crosstalk which is more important than all of this. My CLD-3030 is close to perfect so I'm not going to mess with it.

Yeah, when I recap anything I try to use 105C rated Panasonics wherever I can.

I've been using those as well with my SDP-E800 repair. Been using them on the DSP & input switching stages and the unit has been working much better (but I still have some glitching elsewhere). I mainly chose the Panasonic's for the fact that their blue/yellow color scheme makes it easier for me to tell between what caps I changed or kept.

just a simple cleaning of old grease (paper towels soaked in Isopropyl Alcohol) and fresh re-grease (i used WHITE LITHIUM GREASE)
otherwise, it's a surprisingly simple mechanism, probably the main reason why the 0030-series players have stood the test of time so well...